Billy Cardi Tutorial: It's Fall!

I need to confess.  There is something that fellow seamstresses might be shocked to learn about me.


Halloween is not my favorite holiday.


There.  I've said it and I will own it, because as much as you'd think I would love to sew Halloween costumes, I don't.  There are definitely some I enjoy constructing more than others.  Like a theme.  I love me a good theme, especially when it involves the whole family, but there are opinions contrary to my own around here now that they're getting older.  So, we'll see if I even do any Halloween-related sewing this month.  


BUT!  Now that we are well into Fall (at least those on this half of the hemisphere), I thought it would be a good time to re-post my Billy Cardi tutorial I did for Shannon from Luvinthemommyhood's Knits vs. Sews she did last year.  I may sew up a few of these this month.  They are truly very simple and ridiculously comfortable, warm and versatile.  Give 'em a go!

* * *

I will be bringing home my guest post tutorials over the course of bringing home my baby.

I'm gloved and ready for my time in the ring!

Thanks for letting me duke it out here at luvinthemommyhood today.

I never knew my cardio kickboxing VHS would actually come in handy for using my uppercut, thanks Billy Blanks.

What do the sews have that the knits don't?  

The ability to snip here and there without redoing the whole thing: raw edges, of course!  So I thought we sewists could use that to our advantage in this piece.  Not only raw edges, but inside out seams.  Whoa.  We're getting crazy over here!

What I chose as my muse?  Ribbed knit.  

Ribbed knit is so stretchy and forgiving and COMFY!

You'll need:

2-3 yards [depending on size and width]

Thread 

A long sleeve t-shirt pattern OR an old t-shirt cut along the seams

Butcher or freezer paper

and

just a bit of courage  ;) 

  

Let's talk thread.  I used a regular polyester for the primary sewing

For the decorative stitching [more on that later] I used Sulky thread which you should not use for seams as it is a very weak thread, but provides some shine to your stitches.  I used a shade darker for even more of a statement, but you can certainly use the same thread as your seams if you'd like.

If you are using a t-shirt, trace each piece on some paper, adding 1/2" seam allowance around the whole thing.  This is basically what you should end up with:

Next, we're going to add some COMFY changes:

lengthen the sleeve 2-3 inches

extend the front neck up at the stitching line (1/2" from edge) and out 8-10" and down

extend the back neck up and out and down to other side

This might hurt as you do it and cause great anxiety, but you're going to put WRONG SIDES TOGETHER for the shoulder/neck seams.  Stitch with a very slight zig-zag [as in you can barely tell.]  This seam allowance will be visible on the outside of the garment.  Trim seam allowance to 3/8" on both sides and use a decorative stitch on the very edge.

Test this decorative stitch on a scrap!  Trust me, those decorative stitches are torture to remove.  Trust me.  Really, just trust me on this one.  I chose a blanket stitch [#9 on my machine.]  But I also increased both the length and width of my stitch to the maximum to make it a big stitch.

I would suggest not using a plain zig-zag stitch, though.  We want it to look homemade in a good way.  Next stitch the sleeve cap in with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER in the arm hole.  No need to do a double basting stitch on the sleeve cap.  Just pin in place and stretch it to fit.   Your final stitching will be the sleeve, keep your needle in the "down" position at the armpit, pivot and stitch the side seam.  Repeat on other sleeve/side seam.

All other edges are left raw and provide some nice draping effects.

You can wear it belted and open.

and those extra long sleeves?  So comfy and warm.

Or, for a more sophisticated look, fold one side over the other and pin in place

I love how the decorative stitching looks like a faux epaulette.  Who doesn't love an epaulette?

GO COMFY SEWS!!

You up for the challenge, knitters?